Tuesday, October 27, 2020

Panama Exploration Trip for Retirement 2010

Our first trip to Panama to check it out for future retirement was in 2010. We went over Thanksgiving since we both were still working.

I pre-arranged a local guide named Mario who picked us up from the airport and gave us a tour of the city and then a second day to Monkey Island and Gamboa Rainforest. He was a great guide for seeing the sites, but wasn’t into hiking, so we did a brief walk in the rainforest as “he didn’t see the point”. He wasn’t hired as a nature guide, so I get it.

Mario at Panama Viejo







Panamá Viejo is the remaining part of the original Panama City, the former capital of the country. It is located in the suburbs of the current capital. Together with the historical district of Panamá, it has been a World Heritage Site since 1997.


We asked Mario to take us to an authentic place for lunch and we were the only "gringos" there - we had grilled chicken and patacones. (of course once we moved to Panama we discovered fondas and they would be the most authentic places since they serve cheap home-cooked meals)

Noriega's home

After lunch Mario drove us around to see various neighborhoods and we passed by Noriega's home. We stopped the Miraflores Visitor's Center for the Panama Canal.








We then went to Panama City and took a drive along the Amador Causeway.




Beside the towering glass skyscrapers of bustling modern Panama City is the neighborhood of Casco Viejo. This Panama City historic district is also known as Casco Antiguo Panama and features colonial architecture which is a stark contrast to the city. Lots of trendy restaurants to try and markets where indigenous people sell their handicrafts.

church in Casco Viejo






San Felipe





Security checkpoint Bolivar Palace - to prove my camera was real he had me take his photo and show it to him












We topped the evening off with dinner and a culture show at Tinajas.



















Hotel Continental & Casino where we spent 1 night

Mario was waiting for us the next morning to visit Monekey Island & Gamboa Rainforest. He started by driving us through a fruit and vegetables market and he bought us a pineapple. ($1.00) 











We then drove to Gamboa with a stop at a grocery store where Mario bought some fruit for the monkeys. 

Mario, our guide with boat captain
off we go









iguana

caiman
sloth
lots of Howler Monkeys in the tree





Capuchin monkey coming on the boat - those are my fingers












Boa along side the road to the rainforest




Cutter Ants carrying leaves

Toucan in the rainforest
lunch on the causeway before going to the airport


Mario took us to the airport for our flight to David. That turned into a fiasco. The flight was canceled after a long wait for it to board. We were given a choice of taking the overnight bus to get there or wait for the flight that left in the morning. In hindsight we should have taken the bus, but we opted to have the airline put us up in a “hotel” that included dinner and they picked us up the next morning for the flight.

The hotel was horrible. We heard what we thought were gunshots outside the hotel. It was barely a 1* hotel at best. Suicide shower. (hot water switch in the shower) The A/C did not work, but it was only because the front desk needed to turn it on from downstairs. They did and it worked. In the evening we didn’t have cold water and the next morning we only had cold water. So, brushed our teeth in hot water and the next morning there was no hot water for a shower. The food was marginal. (borderline clean in the room) We have stayed in many places in Panama since and all were very good.

The flight to David went as scheduled in the morning. We had planned to stay in a hotel in David the night before and have them set up a taxi to give us a tour of the area and then drive us to Boquete. 

However, that went out the window when our flight didn’t go. So, we arrived at the airport and wondered how we were going to explain to a taxi driver that probably only spoke Spanish that we were looking to retire to Panama and wanted a tour of David and then be driven to Boquete where we were staying for a couple of nights. We were approached by a young man and we stuttered and stammered something between English and Spanish when he said in perfect English “just tell me, I speak English”. So, with the messaged relayed we negotiated his rate and we made a quick stop at his house so he could tell his wife he’d be gone all day. 

He took us by the hospital and some grocery stores and took us to the coast where there was a gated community we wanted to see. On the drive he told us he was an exchange student in the States and that’s where he learned English. I asked him where and he said he was sure we never would have heard of it. I don’t recall the town now, but it was in Iowa and I’m from Iowa. Too funny! He said he was miserable there. You know they made me stand outside in the snow to catch a bus to school? Coming from the Tropics he had never experienced snow and hoped to never experience it again.

On the drive to Las Olas we encountered some Brahman cattle on the road (they were being moved from one place to another) and we had to stop for them to go around us.














There was a small parade in town which was fun to see


He then drove us to Boquete and we got checked into the Boquete Garden Inn. (whenever we have visited Boquete after moving to Panama we always stayed there) Just a lovely setting and the rooms were nice. The breakfast was wonderful and the colorful birds kept us entertained during breakfast. They served a course of yogurt and fruit which we thought was enough and then they came by to get our breakfast order of eggs & meats etc. The stay also included a happy hour drink at their bar.

We got checked in and then wandered around the grounds.

drive to Boquete

entering Boquette


Boquete Garden Inn
ready to explore the grounds



breakfast area






happy hour bar










our second story room (we prefer the view upstairs)



We then went for a walk about town.

we had lunch at Pizzeria a Mi Modo

pony rides for the kids
of course we had ice cream


bus depot


Ngobe-Bugle Indigenous people



dinner at Machu Picchu restaurant - yum

I had set up a 4X4 Cloud Forest tour & Nature Hike for the next day. Since the tour picked us up before breakfast was served, the owners delivered a packaged breakfast and put it in our fridge for us the night before. The pastry they served with breakfast was to die for. While we waited for the tour guide to pick us up we watched the beautiful Neotropical birds. The owners put fruit out for them every morning. 

Flame-colored Tanager - immature
Blue-Gray Tanager & Silver Beaked Tanager
Blue-Gray Tanager
Blue-Gray Tanager
Red-legged Honeycreeper, Blue-Gray Tanager & Clay-colored Thrush
Red-legged Honeycreeper
first stop on the tour
tour vehicle


locals say this “castle” is haunted (someone started to build it and then abandoned the project
greenhouses (they grow lots of strawberries in Boquete)
farms on the hillsides
cute water pipe
start of the trail














our guide John sizing up the vine



there was a Dutch couple with us and the husband swung on the vine as well
waterfall at the end of the trail

Tropical Kingbird

black snake


it must have been laundry day - washing clothes in the creek

We also saw a glass butterfly, but didn't get a good photo. John promised to send us his photo, but he never did. We made a stop at Mi Jardin es su Jardin, which was beautiful.







wedding chapel in the garden



owner's house with window in floor to see his Koi in pool










We then went to lunch in town and afterwards we did a cloud forest tour and the other couple went horseback riding. 


farms


Rufous-collared Sparrow
saddest little calf EVER wet and cold..... he's thinking "why couldn't I be a beach cow?"
hikers coming back from the volcano hike



forest ranger building


watch out for jumping dogs???? John said they didn't have a deer sign so they took a dog and put jumping legs and antlers on it
coffee plants
coffee beans
a bit of a rainbow
view of Boquete

Since it was our anniversary we had asked the owners of Boquete Garden Inn where we should go and she had recommended Panamonte Inn which had a beautiful restaurant and it was very good.





It would have been a short walk, but the bridge was washed out so we had to go the long way around, so we grabbed a taxi. (I don't think it was ever rebuilt)



I also had contacted a real estate agent to show us around at possible rentals. Again, the owners of the Garden Inn recommended one for us. We emailed her and we set up a date to see some possible rentals.

Since we didn't have an early start we got to eat breakfast with the birds at the Inn.

Clay-colored Thrush
Silver-Throated Tanager
Clay-colored Thrush
Silver-throated Tanager
Red-legged Honeycreeper - female
male Thick-billed Euphonia
male Thick-billed Euphonia
Tennessee Warbler
Scarlet-Rumped Tanager - male

lunch at Mexican restaurant Antojitos Mexicanos
lunch with Lauretta at Mexican place
first condo at El Valle Escondito


almost finished home not in gated community

condo at Boquete Country Club (country club in Panama means a horse stable)
view from second floor
villa at Boquete Country Club

another condo at Boquete Country Club

spa in progress at Boquete Country Club
Lauretta & Rogelio who owns the Country Club & horses
Paso Fino horses



Lauretta dropped us back at the Garden Inn and we later walked into town for dinner.

The flight between Boquete & Bocas del Toro had been terminated (long term, not a surprise) so the Garden Inn set up a driver that took us to where we would need to take a boat to the main Island. We had breakfast with the birds again before we left in the van.

Red-breasted Blackbird
Scarlet-rumped Tanager - female
Blue-gray Tanager, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Silver-throated Tanager, Clay-colored Thrush
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Red-legged Honeycreeper & Clay-colored Thrush
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Yellow-Throated Vireo
Red-Legged Honeycreeper
Flame-colored Tanager
Buff-throated Saltator
Red-legged Honeycreepers, Palm Tanager, Cherries Tanager

drive to Almirante - behind the cows in the truck

rest stop on way to Bocas

Donde esta el bano?

police station
water taxi to Bocas del Toro from Almirante to Bocas Town - there was a cat in a cage behind us that had been to the Vet in David and was being returned to the owner




we went for a walk around town in search of lunch


lunch was buffet










smoothie & lunch cafe

We stayed at Cocomo on the Sea for a couple of nights.

entrance to the lodging
trying to find our room
breakfast area






they provided use of kayaks


just chillin'

our room

We met a young couple at breakfast and they were interested in joining us for a tour Red Frog beach, Dolphin Bay and snorkeling. We didn't bring a water camera so no photos of the snorkeling, but we saw a few seahorses and some fish, but not much. There were lots of stinging jellies so we didn't stay in long.



Bacho our boat captain





lunch stop after snorkeling









U.S. Coast Guard

Dolphin Bay





building a bohio



transportation to Red Frog Beach



tour mate retrieving wife's hat
for a dollar a little girl let us take a photo of the Red Frog she caught, too bad they both were blurry








mother sloth & baby







We were returned back to the B&B and we got cleaned up for dinner. We grabbed a water taxi to another island for dinner. Greg had some fish cooked in a banana leaf and I had a lobster mac & cheese. Of course I fed the resident cat. They were advertising a "traditional Thanksgiving meal" for the next night and we kept the flier in case we wanted to go.

We had one last day in Bocas and we set up a tour to Starfish Beach the next day.

road to Boca del Drago



walk to Starfish beach - we were given free time and told what time to meet back in town
the sand flies were horrific here and even in sandals they were biting like crazy - OUCH!
the beautiful views made up for the pain of the sand flies











me wading to look for starfish




















opted for a boat ride back to Boca del Drago to avoid the sand flies


lunch


just chillin'



















Despite one of the islands having a “traditional” Thanksgiving meal we opted to eat at one of the restaurants over the water and we had seafood. Greg had octopus and I had shrimp. 

On the last day we were taken to the airport for our flight back to Panama City. It was running very late (several hours) and Mario was there waiting for us when we finally got there. To top it off, he thought we were supposed to be on the earlier flight so he had an extra long wait for us. He had gone home at one point to pick up his wife and child so we met them as well. He then drove us to the international airport for our flight home.

So, for our first trip to Panama we managed to rule out every place that we visited. There are lots of expats in Boquete, but at that time there weren’t as many flights or as much shopping as there is now, plus it’s a bit cooler there than I prefer. (though there are areas between David & Boquete that are warmer) At that time David only had small planes to the city of Panama. (they now can take large planes) David gets as hot as Panama City. We aren’t “city people”, so we ruled out those places. We loved Bocas, but the islands are remote and to travel or if you needed medical care it would be a plane ride and or boat & plane ride to David or Panama City. Not much in the way of grocery shopping and restaurants were high due to being on an island where most everything has to be imported. We knew we would continue to travel and taking any quantity of luggage would be problematic. (though from David, we could drive, but it’s almost in Costa Rica so not a short drive and would require a night in a hotel before flying out.

We returned in 2012 to check out the Altos del Maria/Coronado area which sounded more like “us”. Of course it did turn out to be the place for us. 

The next cruise/land trip will be the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador & land portion to Ecuador for Machu Picchu. That one will take some time to put together. LOTS of photos.

Panama City - https://photos.app.goo.gl/4JRvaqYGPaFDFb8X7

Monkey Island & Gamboa Rainforest https://photos.app.goo.gl/Aqfjpdg2aYhnwaTk9

David https://photos.app.goo.gl/HsREwrc25LqpMKYcA

Boquete 4X4 Cloud Forest https://photos.app.goo.gl/u7UdE63ULhR9G9Gh8

Boquete https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ycke97SLVgYGKqza6

Boquete Garden Inn https://photos.app.goo.gl/X8YFBofMn1xxYKXx7

Dolphin Bay, snorkeling & Red Frog Beach https://photos.app.goo.gl/6DNwrqdW9VnTywFM6

Boca del Toro & Starfish Beach https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y3TqqhHecystYA2s5

Cocomo on the Sea https://photos.app.goo.gl/arZR79tLQUD2QEU57

Bocas del Toro https://photos.app.goo.gl/JySks9K6DZu8XFB69