Friday, June 3, 2022

Havana, Cuba - Old Havana - Day 2

Sunday May 22, 2022 - Getting to know Old Havana and its people

The theme for the trip was “this isn’t open today”. We thought it was because it was a Sunday, but if everything is closed on Sundays, why not switch days? However, Dario said they are normally open. I think the pandemic had many places closed. Squares that normally would have been full of families enjoying the lovely day were sparse. Other than “ambiance” we didn’t feel we missed anything really.

The Havana’s Museum of Modern Art that we were supposed to visit was closed due to a possible gas leak. Prior to leaving for the trip, the news reported that a hotel blew up due to a gas leak. It was closed for renovations, so no one was harmed. Anyway, we were instead taken to another type of art gallery.

I think we got the better end of the deal as it was a fantastic place to visit. “El Tanque: Casa Cultural Comunitaria” was named for the hollowed-out water tank that stood in the middle of the cultural center. (and discovered under the trash)

A few people started throwing things away there and then others just kept piling on until it was very high and covered blocks. So, a group of people started the daunting task of sorting through the mountain of trash throwing out anything not at all usable and then salvaging anything that they could turn into art if it wasn’t of any other value. It took years for the community project to become what it is today.

El Tanque



walls across the street and around the center























a wild plant was growing inside the egg


outside wall of the tank
through the window to the gallery inside the tank

view of old Havana from there


inside the tank

The art around El Tanque was incredible and was created by famous Cuban artists in many different mediums, for an eclectic and vibrant look. Our guide explained that the cultural center was used for community classes and workshops for children and adults alike, and that his course in English Literature was to begin the following day. 


Our tour of El Tanque was rounded off by a fantastic musical performance of a band led by El Tanque’s chorus director. Our local guide even joined in with the band. I wished I had taken a video. Very fun stop!
















forgot to take off my mask

We then went on a walking tour of the four historic plazas in Old Havana.

views out of the window driving to old Havana
there were quite a few horse carts around the country

Castillo de la Real Fuerza

We started at Castillo de la Real Fuerza in Plaza de Armas. On the seaward side of Plaza de Armas is Castillo de la Real Fuerza, one of the oldest existing stone forts in the Americas. Today the fortress is a shipwreck museum, displaying jewels, artifacts and a huge model of a naval ship. (not open)

Plaza de Armas was built in the 1600s and was used for military exercises up until the mid-1700s. In the center of the square, which is lined with royal palms, is a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, the man who set Cuba on the road to independence in 1868.

















Across from the fort is El Templete, a founding monument built in 1828 to mark the exact site where Havana’s first mass and first town council meeting took place back in 1519.

El Templete

We saw the three large canvases that represent the holding of the first mass, the first town council, and a central canvas (painted later) where there appears the blessing of the site at a mass led by the bishop of Espada in presence of the General Captain, the aristocracy and high officials of the colonial government.


Carlos Manuel de Céspedes

happy dog in the plaza
Eurasian Collared Dove
Red-legged Thrush


In front of Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, the guide pointed out that what looked like cobblestones were actually wooden blocks. The fable goes that it made the street quieter so when the generals were napping it wouldn’t wake them up. It proved too costly to do all the streets that way.




Palacio National

















We then walked to Plaza de San Francisco. The picturesque Plaza de San Francisco is directly across from the port. It appears more commercial in nature than the other plazas since the old customs house and former stock exchange were here.

Plaza de San Francisco



Fuente de los Leones
Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis


Terminal Sierra Maestra (port area)





Caballero de Paris" (The Gentleman from Paris) a peculiar homeless man that used to roam Havana streets giving away his fortune. Rubbing his beard while standing on one of his feet is said to bring good luck.


Caballero de Paris

We then stopped to see Zanja Real which was the first aqueduct, built in Cuba to supply water to Havana. There are quite a few these aqueducts.



Our next square was La Habana Vieja, or Old Havana and it’s the historic heart of Cuba’s capital city. Here we found a mix of historic buildings, museums, galleries, churches and not so lively plazas. (due to the pandemic) Once Plaza Vieja was known as Plaza Nueva, or “New Square”. The plaza, laid out in 1559, lost its name after Plaza de Armas was widened in the 19th century.


Our guide suggested we check out this small museum. A rather non-descript building we are glad we checked out the 115-foot structure. Up on the roof, looking over the rest of Old Havana, is the Camera Obscura. Invented by Leonardo da Vinci, the Camera Obscura is an optical device that gives viewers a 360° view of their surroundings. In Havana, that means a live image of the old town, projected onto a dark screen inside the tower. Dario grabbed an English-speaking guide that took us to the small dark room to see the history of Havana projected on a circle in front of us. After those pictures were projected, the best part was watching the 360° view in real time. Leonardo da Vinci first gave a detailed description of the camera obscura in his "Atlantic Codex" 1490. Image quality was improved with the addition of a convex lens into the aperture in the 16th century. However, the very best part was the beautiful views of the square and the surrounds from the rooftop. 

it was dark in there and I borrowed this photo from the internet
this was our photo of the projected "screen"
views from the roof









dome is the National Capitol of Cuba building














continuing on with the walking tour
no story behind the rooster (Tom, it made me think of you)










We wandered on and passed the chocolate shop, which was closed, but the perfume place was open. I’m not a fan of perfume so we didn’t go in. Was looking forward to the chocolate shop.

We continued to an open-air museum that was having a display of Mexican art. It was here that I missed a large step down on the way out and try as I might to right myself, I fell down. Greg said it was like watching slow motion. I scraped my left knee and my camera attached to my right wrist hit the ground. I was fine, but I was worried my camera would never work again. As we walked to the next square I happened to look down and see blood running down my leg. Just a tiny scrape, but luckily Greg had a tissue, and I had a Wet One wipe and got it stopped. I also had some pretty good bruises. I don’t know why it didn’t hurt, but glad it didn’t. Later at the hotel I put some antibiotic and a band-aide on it.

open air museum








Our last square was Plaza de la Catedral. Most of the buildings surrounding the square, including the Cathedral, date back to the 18th century. The blue accents and arched, stained glass windows made it a pretty square.

Havana Cathedral




La Bodeguita del Medio is a restaurant-bar in Havana, Cuba. La Bodeguita lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the bar since its opening in 1942, although this is disputed.




It was now time for our lunch, and we walked a short distance to Mojito Mojito. We got our welcome cocktail which was of course was a Mojito. Our second drink was a “lemonade”. I don’t know why I didn’t take a photo of it as it was beautiful. All frozen with sugar on the rim and soooo good. Another great band played while we ate our pork.


Restaurante Mojito Mojito 

Dario


our pork & yuca



mostly round signs - this is a stop sign

We then went back to the hotel and were met by Marcel & Julio for a Q&A. This was also one of the highlights of the trip. They said we could ask anything. (even to criticize to which I replied we don’t travel to criticize or pass judgment on how other countries live.

Very great discussion on life in Cuba, government and also discussion of government in the States. They don’t like that the government takes and has so much, but the people have little. The average Cuban makes $30 a month. So, the more educated make more and some don’t work at all. They do like that health care and education is free. (if you think taking 90% of what you make free) Also, there is a shortage of most everything including medications and those types of supplies. We talked about how badly the Trump administration hurt their economy with the embargos. We all realized that the embargos don’t hurt the government (they already have a lot and honestly don’t care enough about their people), but it hurts the people.

Great back and forth and very fascinating.

Later that evening we were taken to dinner at Palacio de los Corredores. We had a mojito before dinner and the food was very good, and the views were nice as the tables were located on the rooftop.

Palacio de los Corredores
Greg at the table

view of the capital dome
salad
my chicken & shrimp (not sure what the blue-green sauce was, but it was tasty)
Greg's fish

After dinner we went to the renowned Cabaret Parisien and enjoyed a performance of musicians and beautiful dances. The theme was how people came from all over immigrating and the mixing of the cultures made the country what it is. The costumes and performances were amazing. Again, we had another included mojito. It started late due to a large party that had issues with their food. We missed the last 10 or 15 minutes of it, but it was a great evening of music and dance.





























Tomorrow we are visiting a community up in the mountains.

For larger photos: Cuba Day 2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ah6QKCeW4Gggfudx6

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