July 23
We had our last breakfast at the hotel this morning. The
server at the hotel restaurant greeted us both days she waited on us by saying "good morning, ladies". Even after Greg spoke. I guess with the pride event going on she
thought we made a great pair and she probably thought she was being progressive.
In this day and age, perhaps dropping the pronouns might be a better choice. Just
saying good morning without trying to guess what we are. Besides the ones that you
don’t know which they prefer to be called you have people like us where she
just flat out got it wrong. The guy that waited on us didn’t greet us that way.
We laughed it off, but seriously??? One of us needs to butch-up. (or one of us
needs to “butch-down”) Can't we just be people?
Greg's pancakes looked so good yesterday we both ordered them this morning. While, good I'm still not a pancake fan
It was a later start today which was nice. We met for the
tour around 9:15. We had Larry again for The Irish Loop to Ferryland. He had told us on our first tour to the Bay that he was doing the Ferryland Tour on Saturday.
Larry said we would take a run ‘Up’ the Southern Shore. We rode
along the pretty coastal roadways that connect the outport fishing communities
along Newfoundland’s Irish Loop.
We stopped at Sts Peter & Paul Parish in Bay Bulls and we
passed by a viewpoint as it was too foggy to see the 5 Islands foggy so Larry
said we would stop on the way back.
Next up was Witless Bay which is composed of four small islands and home to Witless
Bay Ecological Reserve. (same area where we saw the Puffins on the boat tour) While we had the least windy day of the trip, it made for a very foggy day. We remarked that we were so lucky that we did the Puffin Boat tour the day before as the weather was perfectly clear. You'll see from the photos that the fog came and went all day.
I had to be a Puffin
mostly puffins
Common Loon
Puffin
Common Loon
Puffins
across the street from the Bay
Our next stop was the settlement of Avalon. Newfoundland played an important role in the expansion of
the British Empire. The remains of the Ferryland settlement of Avalon laid
undisturbed for centuries. In Ferryland we stopped at a museum and watched a short film and then on to a
17th Century kitchen before taking a walking tour of the archeological dig.
They are still unearthing remains. The Colony of Avalon is widely recognized as
the best preserved early English colonial site in North America.
17th Century Kitchen (reproduction)
puzzle jug
A puzzle jug, shaped with a bulbous middle and slender head, was a multi-spouted decanter. The challenge for the drinker was to figure out how to drink the alcohol inside without spilling any. Of course, Greg figured out how to drink without spilling.
"Moose Shack"
Tetley Tea Room By the Sea for a lunch
pan-fried fish and chips
From here we went to MerryMeeting Arts & Crafts to shop and have some
home-made muffins by the owner & his wife. John Chidley is the owner, and he paints and also plays music. The shop has all authentic handcrafted treasures by local
artisans. Lots of hand knitted things that were lovely. (useless in Florida) There were also some handicrafts and many pieces of artwork. I picked up a cite shelf sitter with Jellybean Houses on snow.
I had been searching (since we hit St. John's) for Puffin earrings. The boat tour place had "silver" ones with lots of pink beads and here they had silver studs. No store in town had any. I wanted ones that actually looked like Puffins. (got some online after we got home)
John came on the van with us and gave us a tour of Ferryland. He regaled us with more stories and lore and showed us where he lives.
MerryMeeting Local Arts & Crafts
John
weaving loom
Oddly, one of the highlights of the tour wasn't part of the tour. It's a small community and Mary was turning 100 years old. It seemed the whole town was doing a drive-by honking and waving and holding signs. The line on the other side of the street passing us seemed to never end. In fact, John's wife was in the parade, and we waited until she got back to go in and have her muffins and see the craft store.
Mary's house & party
next door to the craft shop
in the van around Ferryland
we got out and walked around the park
we did a short walk around the back of the hill
some people climbed up
our guide Larry on the rock
We dropped John off at the craft store and headed back to St. John’s.
The fog had
cleared enough so we did get to see the 5 islands at Tors Cove. The population of Tors Cove is around 300 people. Fox island is on the left and the island in the center is named great island and it is
a bird’s sanctuary, the home of the puffins. Ship Island is on the right and
these two islands makeup The Seabird Ecological Reserve established in 1983.
Dinner was at Duke of Duckworth. We didn’t want fish and
chips twice in a day, but it’s what they are known for and we were not disappointed.
Coast Guard
on the floor of Duke of Duckworth
we ate outside
indoor seating
There was a drag show going on outside and we watched that
for a while. I hadn't seen a live drag show in quite a few years. These were locals from around Newfoundland and Labrador.
We took a break to try an interesting ice cream truck by the harbor. It's Eva's Chimneys. Chimney cakes are a traditional Eastern European “bread-like-pastry” that originated in Transylvania, Romania.
It's quite a process watching these cones made. They roll the dough onto the spindles, which need to rise for
five to 10 minutes. The dough is then baked on their propane stoves for four to
five minutes and then seasoned with cinnamon sugar, Oreo or graham wafer while it is still hot. The cones-cakes then have
to cool down before adding the ice cream.
We both had the Dream Cones, only rolled in Oreo crumbs. They put a malted milk ball in the bottom and then layer in ice cream, Nutella, Skor pieces, brownies, caramel and chocolate. Holy Cow were they good!
We went back to watch a few more acts of the drag show before it was time to go for our screech in at Christian’s Pub.
gotta love gold lamé shorts
they were getting dressed in Velvet Club
You may be wondering what a "screech-in" is. This ritual, called a Screech-in, is a satirical tribute to the history of Newfoundland and Labrador. During the triangular trade, the region exchanged salted codfish, its once-primary export, for the West Indies’ rum. Later picking up the name “Screech,” the amber liquor became intertwined with local culture—one writer described the history of Newfoundland as “a long battle between rum and religion.” Today, Screech is 80-proof, locally bottled Jamaican rum, and it plays an important role in initiating visitors to become honorary Newfoundlanders.
What a fun time we had getting "screeched-in". We had a 9:00 slot and we were there at 8:30 and got seats at the bar. It was packed inside and out. They also have an upstairs bar that we never saw.
The owner, Brian Day was sitting at the end of the bar filling out the certificates and told us to sit next to him at the bar. Turned out they were the best place to be for the ceremony. It was a huge crowd of around 52 people. He said the earlier times are less crowded, but we couldn't make it any earlier after our tours and dinner. Anyone not in the ceremony were told to wait outside on the patio or go upstairs to the bar and wait.
Brian dimmed the lights, and the crowd went wild cheering. He was wearing a black rain hat and had 2 large oars. He made everyone be quiet for the next part. He said, "I can hear a mouse fart, so don't even whisper". Lights came up again and Brian went around the room and had each of us say our name and state or province. A few giggles came out and he repeated that he needed complete silence to remember everyone’s name. (and started over) There were 2 rows of people behind those of us sitting at the bar. One lady was too short to be seen by him and he had her move to a row where he could see her and said he won’t remember her name unless he could see her face)
He then went around the room and called all of us by our names.
Lights down again, he lights a huge flame that shoots into the air in a small grill and the crowd cheered.
All the while he is telling stories. Then he has a thick piece of bologna "Newfoundland Steak" that he grilled. Then he cut it into small pieces for us to try. He said rich families ate that while the poor families ate lobster much like years ago prisoners were fed lobster since it was so plentiful. They complained that they couldn’t eat lobster every day.
Then he told the story of the trading between Jamaica and Newfoundland and the really bad rum that was named screech since the first Newfounderlander drank a shot and screeched loudly it was so harsh. Jokes were made about not spilling it on your hands or face and at all costs don't spill it on the floor it will peel the varnish right off!
We had to kiss a frozen cod on the lips. He said in the days of Covid we can’t be forcing you to kiss the fish, and he joked the WHO might come down on him for creating the cod flu.
First, he asked us if we'd like to become a Newfoundlander. The proper response is a hefty “yes b’y!” and you’ll be taught this by Brian.
Next, you’ll be asked some variation of “Is ye a screecher?” Brian then tells you what you need to memorize said at light speed. Yikes! Then he slows it down and you repeat after him "Deed I is, me ol’ cock! And long may yer big jib draw!”
Before the next step he says "You must be fully committed to the process. Should you refuse to kiss the cod or down the Newfoundland Screech, you will bring great shame to your family, live with deep regret, and be banned from the island".
He then went around and had everyone kiss the cod.
We each had the opportunity to kiss the fish. (My photo of Greg didn’t work as he pulled the fish away quickly and he said at the end he’d bring it back around for retakes)
He gave this toast:
"From the waters of the Avalon, to the shores of Labrador,
We’ve always stuck together, with a rant and a roar.
To those who’ve never been, soon they’ll understand,
From coast to coast, we raise a toast, we love thee Newfoundland!"
It was time to down the Screech. It wasn’t that harsh, but it did warm your innards.
Lights came up and the bar was open again. We were told we could take our shot glasses. Brian now went around the room passing out the certificates and did it by handing it to the person and saying their name. (I can't remember my own, much less 52 after doing the performance he did) They give you tubes to roll your certificates in to take with you.
Christian's Pub
too dark in the pub for photos
passing around Newfoundland Steak (bologna) that he grilled
bringing out the cod
getting ready to shoot the Screech
you keep the shot glasses
It’s late and we wander back to the hotel. On the way we passed a bar with a balcony, and they were chanting kiss kiss kiss. I thought they were saying fish since we were carrying the telltale screech-in tubes. Greg says they are saying kiss, so we obliged them! They cheered!
Packing for the final time, it was just easier to pull everything out and start over. (all liquids now in checked) So, it's after midnight and we need to be up at 3:30 for our 4:40 pick-up the next morning. (only flight out to Toronto)
Anyone getting screeched in was a fun way to end the trip.
For larger photos:
St John's Newfoundland - Day 3 -
Irish Loop to Ferryland & Screech-In Ceremony
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aU5LzbDLaBam6brd8
